- Good conditions for gneiss
- Wet gneiss is slick — let the rock dry before leading
BLACK CANYON · GNEISS · bird ban
Black Canyon of the Gunnison weather & climbing conditions
Poor — wet, too windy or closed
Right now
Assessment
7-day forecast
Scroll through each day — hourly detail is shown inline.
- Good conditions for gneiss
- Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
- Good conditions for gneiss
- Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
- Good conditions for gneiss
- Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
- Good conditions for gneiss
- Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
- Good conditions for gneiss
- Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
- Good conditions for gneiss
- Wet gneiss is slick — let the rock dry before leading
- Wet gneiss is slick — let the rock dry before leading
- Damp air — friction edges may feel greasy
About Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Black Canyon of the Gunnison is one of Colorado's most serious big-wall trad venues — 1.7-1.8 billion-year-old Precambrian gneiss and schist walls up to 2250ft tall (the Painted Wall is the third-largest vertical cliff in the contiguous US), sliced by pink pegmatite dikes that give the Painted Wall its name. Wilderness permit required for every climb (free at the ranger station). Peak seasons are mid-April to early June and mid-September to early November — summer brings dangerous afternoon thunderstorms (North American monsoon) and heat that makes the sunny walls unclimbable; winter closes South Rim road access. Peregrine falcon closures on the main North and South Chasm View Walls run March 15 through July 15 every year — this is a hard NPS block, not a partial one; verify the current park map for exactly which routes are affected. The pegmatite bands, while striking, are described as 'shattered and flaky' — test blocks and pin knife-blades cautiously.
- Region
- Black Canyon
- Rock type
- Gneiss
- Aspect
- mixed-facing
- Altitude
- 5673 ft
- Exposure
- high
- Seepage
- medium