- Good friction range for phonolite
- Phonolite climbs well when dry; the columnar crack systems drain reasonably fast after rain
DEVILS TOWER · PHONOLITE · bird ban
Devils Tower (Bears Lodge) climbing conditions
Good — dry and climbable
Right now
Assessment
7-day forecast
Scroll through each day — hourly detail is shown inline.
- Phonolite climbs well when dry; the columnar crack systems drain reasonably fast after rain
- Good friction range for phonolite
- Wet phonolite is slick and column-crack systems hold water — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for phonolite
- Phonolite climbs well when dry; the columnar crack systems drain reasonably fast after rain
- Good friction range for phonolite
- Phonolite climbs well when dry; the columnar crack systems drain reasonably fast after rain
- Good friction range for phonolite
- Phonolite climbs well when dry; the columnar crack systems drain reasonably fast after rain
- Phonolite climbs well when dry; the columnar crack systems drain reasonably fast after rain
- Breezy — helps drying
- Good friction range for phonolite
- Phonolite climbs well when dry; the columnar crack systems drain reasonably fast after rain
About Devils Tower (Bears Lodge)
Devils Tower — known as Bears Lodge (Mato Tipila) to the Lakota, Cheyenne and other tribes for whom the formation is sacred — is one of the most iconic pieces of stone on earth: a 265m (867 ft) porphyritic phonolite laccolithic butte rising abruptly from the plains of northeastern Wyoming, established as the first US National Monument by Teddy Roosevelt in 1906. Climbing is on the tower's signature columnar cracks — hundreds of 1.2-1.8m diameter hexagonal columns formed by cooling contraction of the phonolite intrusion, giving 'a crack every 5 or 10 feet' running vertically. The Durrance (5.7+, 6 pitches), first climbed by Fritz Wiessner and William House in 1938, is the easiest summit route and a rite of passage. El Cracko Diablo (5.8, 2p) on the West Face is 'a classic splitter hand-fist crack, one of the most enjoyable and efficient ways to summit the Tower'. Cracks are 'beautiful and uniformly shaped'; faces between are 'less than vertical' and blank. Mandatory free registration at the climbing kiosk at the head of the Tower Trail. No chipping, drilling, or permanent anchor installation permitted. NPS climbing office: (307) 467-5283 x632.
- Region
- Devils Tower
- Rock type
- Phonolite
- Aspect
- mixed-facing
- Altitude
- 4793 ft
- Exposure
- high
- Seepage
- low