Climbing Forecast › Averstal › Magic Wood

AVERSTAL · GNEISS

Magic Wood climbing conditions

Poor — wet, too windy or closed

Right now

Temp9°C
Wind6 km/h
Gusts9 km/h
Humidity92.8%
Rain 48hdry
Last rainNone recent

Assessment

1.6mm rain forecast
Good friction temperature range for gneiss
High humidity (92.8%) — gneiss friction compromised, particularly for bouldering

7-day forecast

Scroll through each day — hourly detail is shown inline.

Today Thursday 10 September
Poor
Temp11°C
Rain2mm
Wind8 km/h
Gusts9 km/h
Humidity88%
1.6mm rain forecast
  • Good conditions for gneiss
  • Wet gneiss is slick — let the rock dry before leading
  • Damp air — friction edges may feel greasy
Time °C Rain Wind (km/h) Gust Hum
10:00 9° dry 6 — 92.8%
11:00 11° dry 7 — 82.8%
12:00 11° dry 8 — 85.2%
13:00 11° 0.3mm 9 — 86%
14:00 11° 0.3mm 9 — 88.1%
15:00 11° 0.2mm 9 — 87.5%
16:00 10° 0.1mm 9 — 91.7%
17:00 9° dry 8 — 97.3%
18:00 9° dry 9 — 99.2%
19:00 8° dry 10 — 99.4%
20:00 8° dry 9 — 99.6%
21:00 8° 0.1mm 9 — 99.4%
Fri Friday 11 September
Good
Temp12°C
Raindry
Wind13 km/h
Gusts—
Humidity64%
Should be dry
  • Good conditions for gneiss
  • Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
Time °C Rain Wind (km/h) Gust Hum
06:00 7° dry 11 — 99.6%
07:00 7° dry 11 — 99.6%
08:00 8° dry 11 — 93.3%
09:00 9° dry 12 — 83.7%
10:00 11° dry 12 — 74.1%
11:00 12° dry 13 — 67%
12:00 12° dry 13 — 65.4%
13:00 13° dry 13 — 61.4%
14:00 13° dry 12 — 60.1%
15:00 12° dry 12 — 58.1%
16:00 12° dry 12 — 58.8%
17:00 10° dry 10 — 65.6%
18:00 8° dry 8 — 81.1%
19:00 7° dry 8 — 87.1%
20:00 6° dry 7 — 90.9%
21:00 6° dry 7 — 94.9%
Sat Saturday 12 September
Good
Temp15°C
Raindry
Wind11 km/h
Gusts—
Humidity41%
Should be dry
  • Good conditions for gneiss
  • Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
Time °C Rain Wind (km/h) Gust Hum
06:00 4° dry 8 — 91.1%
07:00 9° dry 7 — 72.9%
08:00 11° dry 5 — 55.7%
09:00 13° dry 4 — 48.3%
10:00 14° dry 6 — 44.4%
11:00 15° dry 8 — 42.3%
12:00 16° dry 10 — 41%
13:00 16° dry 12 — 37.2%
14:00 16° dry 13 — 35.1%
15:00 15° dry 14 — 41.1%
16:00 14° dry 13 — 49%
17:00 12° dry 10 — 54%
18:00 9° dry 6 — 65.6%
19:00 8° dry 5 — 69.2%
20:00 8° dry 5 — 72.3%
21:00 7° dry 6 — 74.5%
Sun Sunday 13 September
Good
Temp17°C
Raindry
Wind10 km/h
Gusts—
Humidity38%
Should be dry
  • Good conditions for gneiss
  • Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
Time °C Rain Wind (km/h) Gust Hum
06:00 8° dry 4 — 66.3%
12:00 17° dry 10 — 37.7%
18:00 11° dry 6 — 67.9%
Mon Monday 14 September
Good
Temp19°C
Raindry
Wind11 km/h
Gusts—
Humidity51%
Should be dry
  • Good conditions for gneiss
  • Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
Time °C Rain Wind (km/h) Gust Hum
06:00 10° dry 2 — 64.6%
12:00 19° dry 11 — 51.3%
18:00 13° dry 4 — 75.6%
Tue Tuesday 15 September
Good
Temp20°C
Rain0.1mm
Wind6 km/h
Gusts—
Humidity57%
Should be dry
  • Good conditions for gneiss
  • Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
Time °C Rain Wind (km/h) Gust Hum
06:00 12° dry 0 — 74%
12:00 20° dry 6 — 56.7%
18:00 15° dry 1 — 91%
Wed Wednesday 16 September
Good
Temp14°C
Raindry
Wind13 km/h
Gusts—
Humidity67%
Should be dry
  • Good conditions for gneiss
  • Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
Time °C Rain Wind (km/h) Gust Hum
06:00 11° dry 5 — 94.7%
12:00 14° dry 13 — 67.1%
18:00 8° dry 11 — 91.1%
Thu Thursday 17 September
Good
Temp15°C
Raindry
Wind5 km/h
Gusts—
Humidity51%
Should be dry
  • Good conditions for gneiss
  • Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
Time °C Rain Wind (km/h) Gust Hum
06:00 4° dry 6 — 86.5%
12:00 15° dry 5 — 51%
18:00 11° dry 1 — 71.1%

About Magic Wood

Perhaps the most famous bouldering venue in the Alps — dense conifer forest on a steep south-east slope above the rushing Ferrera river in the Averstal, at 1300m. The rock is high-quality Alpine gneiss (widely called granite by climbers but geologically paragneiss) and, unlike Font sandstone, is impermeable — bouldering guides consistently report boulders drying surprisingly fast even after heavy downpours. The narrow valley and altitude keep the forest cool through midsummer, making Magic Wood the definitive Alpine hot-weather refuge. Signature line is The Never Ending Story (8B+), extended to 9a via the 1+2+3 link. Ausserferrera is the base village.

Region
Averstal
Rock type
Gneiss
Aspect
south-east-facing
Altitude
1300m
Exposure
low
Seepage
low