- Wet sandstone is slippery — let the rock dry before leading
SCOTLAND - ISLANDS — ORKNEY · SANDSTONE
Old Man of Hoy climbing conditions
Poor — wet, too windy or closed
Right now
Assessment
7-day forecast
Scroll through each day — hourly detail is shown inline.
- Wet sandstone is slippery — let the rock dry before leading
- Very windy — consider sheltered alternatives
- Wet sandstone is slippery — let the rock dry before leading
- Very windy — consider sheltered alternatives
- Wet sandstone is slippery — let the rock dry before leading
- Very windy — consider sheltered alternatives
- Wet sandstone is slippery — let the rock dry before leading
- Very windy — consider sheltered alternatives
- Hard sandstone climbs well when dry
- Hard sandstone climbs well when dry
- Wet sandstone is slippery — let the rock dry before leading
About Old Man of Hoy
The Old Man of Hoy is Britain's most famous sea stack — a 137-metre pillar of Old Red Sandstone standing off the western cliffs of Hoy in Orkney, first climbed by Chris Bonington, Tom Patey and Rusty Baillie in 1966 and made household-name-famous by the BBC live broadcast the following year. The rock is Devonian sandstone, harder and drier-behaved than the Torridonian sandstone of the northwest stacks, though the crux second pitch of the Original Route runs through the least sound band, requiring careful gear selection. Facing broadly east away from the prevailing Atlantic weather, the landward face gets morning light and dries reasonably in the constant sea wind — but Orkney's exposure means you climb between weather windows, not through them. Grades are firmly in the extreme range, with the East Face Route at E1 5b the standard tick, done in five pitches. The approach involves a two-hour walk from the pier at Rackwick, and descent is by three abseils on double sixty-metre ropes.
- Region
- Scotland - Islands — Orkney
- Rock type
- Sandstone
- Aspect
- east-facing
- Altitude
- 30m
- Exposure
- high
- Seepage
- medium