- Wet sandstone is slippery — let the rock dry before leading
- Breezy — helps drying
SCOTLAND - HIGHLANDS — APPLECROSS · SANDSTONE
Sgurr a' Chaorachain (Cioch Nose) climbing conditions
Poor — wet, too windy or closed
Right now
Assessment
7-day forecast
Scroll through each day — hourly detail is shown inline.
- Wet sandstone is slippery — let the rock dry before leading
- Breezy — helps drying
- Wet sandstone is slippery — let the rock dry before leading
- Breezy — helps drying
- Wet sandstone is slippery — let the rock dry before leading
- Breezy — helps drying
- Wet sandstone is slippery — let the rock dry before leading
- Breezy — helps drying
- Hard sandstone climbs well when dry
- Wet sandstone is slippery — let the rock dry before leading
- Wet sandstone is slippery — let the rock dry before leading
About Sgurr a' Chaorachain (Cioch Nose)
The Cioch Nose of Sgurr a' Chaorachain is one of the great classic mountain trad routes of the British Isles — a 140-metre Torridonian sandstone prow rising just above the Bealach na Ba pass at the top of Applecross, first climbed in 1960 by Tom Patey and Chris Bonington. Patey famously called it 'the Diff to end all Diffs' though modern guides upgrade it to Severe 4a; either way it is one of the very few UK routes to receive four stars in the Scottish Rock Climbs selective guide. The rock is coarse Torridonian sandstone with excellent friction, positive jugs, and clean crack systems that take good gear, and the route reads as seven pitches of steep, exposed adventure on an east-facing tower with a huge sense of altitude. Facing east, the Nose dries reasonably in Applecross's constant hill wind, though shaded shelves higher on the route can hold moisture. Approach is short — twenty minutes across the plateau from the Bealach parking — but descent involves committing scrambling.
- Region
- Scotland - Highlands — Applecross
- Rock type
- Sandstone
- Aspect
- east-facing
- Altitude
- 700m
- Exposure
- high
- Seepage
- medium