- Good conditions for granite
KANCAMAGUS · GRANITE
Sundown Ledge climbing conditions
Poor — wet, too windy or closed
Right now
Assessment
7-day forecast
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- Good conditions for granite
- Good conditions for granite
- Good conditions for granite
- Good conditions for granite
- Good conditions for granite
- Good conditions for granite
- Good conditions for granite
About Sundown Ledge
Sundown Ledge is the centerpiece of the Kancamagus Highway climbing area — a cluster of granite crags (Main Cliff, Lost Horizon, Outback, Far Cliff, Gill's Groove) tucked into the woods off the Kancamagus about ten miles west of Conway, White Mountain National Forest. Over 330 documented climbs from 5.4 slab to 5.13 sport on "good granite" — a real mix of moderate trad and hard modern sport. The historical marquee is Vultures (5.10d), a Henry Barber fingercrack testpiece from the golden era of NH trad. The modern hard classics are on the Main Cliff: Eyeless in Gaza (5.12b) is widely called the best 12b in New England, Romper Room (5.12a) the perfect sport lead, and Yellow Matter Custard (5.13a) and Pastryworks (5.13b) the crag testpieces. Moderate ticks: Rock Garden (5.4), Punk Rock (5.7+), Stealing Candy from a Baby (5.7). Documented in Ed Webster's *Rock Climbs in the White Mountains* and the newer *North Conway Rock Climbs* (IME). Access from the Albany Covered Bridge lot at Passaconaway Road / Kancamagus Highway — WMNF pass required; the Covered Bridge lot gate closes in winter (approach from the highway pull-off then). Ten-minute walk on the Boulder Loop trail, bearing right to the base. Granite drains fast — Sundown recovers within a day of most rain events.
- Region
- Kancamagus
- Rock type
- Granite
- Aspect
- south-facing
- Altitude
- 1119 ft
- Exposure
- medium
- Seepage
- medium