- Wet quartzite is slippery but not damaged by climbing
- Breezy — helps drying
NORTH WALES — ANGLESEY - GOGARTH · QUARTZITE · tidal bird ban
Castell Helen (Gogarth) climbing conditions
Poor — wet, too windy or closed
Right now
Assessment
7-day forecast
Scroll through each day — hourly detail is shown inline.
- Wet quartzite is slippery but not damaged by climbing
- Very windy — consider sheltered alternatives
- Wet quartzite is slippery but not damaged by climbing
- Very windy — consider sheltered alternatives
- Quartzite holds friction well when dry
- Breezy — helps drying
- Quartzite holds friction well when dry
- Breezy — helps drying
- Quartzite holds friction well when dry
- Quartzite holds friction well when dry
- Breezy — helps drying
- Quartzite holds friction well when dry
About Castell Helen (Gogarth)
The friendliest of the Gogarth zawns and often a climber's first Gogarth experience. Steep, clean quartzite walls just south of South Stack, accessed by abseil from the lighthouse road. Lighthouse Arete (VS 4c, 80m) is the classic first Gogarth route — atmospheric multi-pitch sea cliff climbing at an accessible grade. Its Direct (HVS 5a) and Blanco (E2 5c) tackle steeper terrain right of the arete. West-facing, so afternoon sun; tidal, with the base submerged at high water. Seabird bird ban applies 1 February to 31 July on adjacent sectors including Mousetrap Zawn and Red Walls — carry the current BMC RAD notes.
- Region
- North Wales — Anglesey - Gogarth
- Rock type
- Quartzite
- Aspect
- west-facing
- Altitude
- 35m
- Exposure
- high
- Seepage
- low