- Good friction range for dolerite
- Dolerite climbs well when dry
- Breezy — helps drying
NORTHERN IRELAND — BALLYCASTLE · DOLERITE
Fair Head climbing conditions
Poor — wet, too windy or closed
Right now
Assessment
7-day forecast
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- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Breezy — helps drying
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Dolerite climbs well when dry
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Breezy — helps drying
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Dolerite climbs well when dry
About Fair Head
Fair Head Wall (E3 5c), Midnight Cruiser (E1 5b), Chrome Hearts (E7 6c), Wall of Prey (E5 6b)","Fair Head is the premier traditional sea cliff venue in Ireland, featuring towering cliff walls composed of exceptionally hard, coarse dolerite with clean vertical fissures and massive scree boulder fields below. Facing north at elevated coastal altitude above the North Channel, the cliff stays mostly shaded during main daylight hours and relies on open coastal winds to blow surfaces dry after rainfall. The climbing style demands sustained physical jamming, laybacking, and bold micro-wire placements across a vast grade spectrum from VS to E8 testpieces, headlined by iconic routes such as Fair Head Wall and Midnight Cruiser. The approach requires a parking fee at the local farm near Ballycastle followed by a fifteen-minute walk across farm fields and a steep descent through boulder gullies like Grey Man's Path. The single most important factor to manage is the physical commitment of descending into the talus field, as escaping requires sustained climbing or hard scrambling back up.
- Region
- Northern Ireland — Ballycastle
- Rock type
- dolerite
- Aspect
- north-facing
- Altitude
- 180m
- Exposure
- high
- Seepage
- low