- Good friction range for dolerite
- Dolerite climbs well when dry
- Breezy — helps drying
NORTHERN IRELAND — BALLYCASTLE · DOLERITE
Fair Head (Murlough Bay) climbing conditions
Poor — wet, too windy or closed
Right now
Assessment
7-day forecast
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- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Breezy — helps drying
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Dolerite climbs well when dry
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Breezy — helps drying
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Dolerite climbs well when dry
About Fair Head (Murlough Bay)
An Sron (E1 5b), Murders in the Rue Morgue (E3 5c), Treachery (E2 5c)","Fair Head (Murlough Bay) sits on the eastern extremity of the great dolerite cliffline, overlooking the scenic, sheltered inlet of Murlough Bay. The rock character consists of immaculate, steep dolerite walls, sweeping corners, and crisp jamming cracks rising above lush wooded hillside slopes. Facing northeast, the sector catches early morning sunshine before going into shade by midday, drying steadily under coastal air currents. Traditional climbing is the focus, providing a brilliant array of middle and upper E-grade routes that require strong jamming technique and bold gear placements, with An Sron being a major classic. The approach is shorter than for the main wall, taking fifteen minutes from the Murlough Bay lower car park up grassy hillside paths to the crag foot. Loose, steep turf on upper exit slopes requires caution when setting up top anchors.
- Region
- Northern Ireland — Ballycastle
- Rock type
- dolerite
- Aspect
- north-east-facing
- Altitude
- 140m
- Exposure
- high
- Seepage
- low