Climbing Forecast › Massachusetts › Farley Ledge

MASSACHUSETTS · GNEISS · bird ban

Farley Ledge climbing conditions

Good — dry and climbable

Right now

Temp58°F
Wind7 mph
Gusts11 mph
Humidity94.9%
Rain 48hdry
Last rainNone recent

Assessment

No recent rain
Good friction temperature range for gneiss
High humidity (94.9%) — gneiss friction compromised, particularly for bouldering
Humidity 94.9% — potential fog/cloud, rock may be damp from condensation

7-day forecast

Scroll through each day — hourly detail is shown inline.

Today Friday 21 August
Good
Temp64°F
Raindry
Wind8 mph
Gusts11 mph
Humidity83%
No recent rain
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
07:00 58° dry 7 — 94.9%
08:00 59° dry 8 — 96.6%
09:00 59° dry 8 — 96.7%
10:00 59° dry 8 — 96.7%
11:00 60° dry 9 — 95.3%
12:00 61° dry 8 — 93.8%
13:00 63° dry 7 — 90.1%
14:00 67° dry 8 — 80.7%
15:00 70° dry 10 — 66.5%
16:00 74° dry 10 — 56.3%
17:00 76° dry 10 — 52.4%
18:00 74° dry 9 — 55%
19:00 73° dry 7 — 56.9%
20:00 74° dry 7 — 56.1%
21:00 73° dry 6 — 58.9%
Sat Saturday 22 August
Good
Temp68°F
Raindry
Wind6 mph
Gusts—
Humidity71%
No recent rain
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 63° dry 4 — 85.7%
07:00 62° dry 5 — 87%
08:00 62° dry 5 — 88%
09:00 59° dry 5 — 93.6%
10:00 60° dry 5 — 89.9%
11:00 61° dry 6 — 87%
12:00 65° dry 5 — 78.7%
13:00 68° dry 6 — 69.3%
14:00 71° dry 6 — 61.5%
15:00 74° dry 5 — 57.1%
16:00 75° dry 5 — 55.3%
17:00 78° dry 6 — 50.9%
18:00 76° dry 6 — 54.9%
19:00 75° dry 6 — 57.9%
20:00 75° dry 6 — 59.1%
21:00 75° dry 6 — 61.3%
Sun Sunday 23 August
Poor
Temp68°F
Rain0.2 in
Wind6 mph
Gusts—
Humidity91%
4.4mm rain forecastHumidity 91% — potential fog
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 65° 0.00 in 6 — 97.6%
07:00 65° dry 6 — 98.1%
08:00 65° 0.01 in 6 — 98.3%
09:00 65° dry 5 — 98.5%
10:00 65° dry 6 — 98.5%
11:00 65° dry 6 — 98.5%
12:00 67° dry 6 — 96%
13:00 69° dry 6 — 90.2%
14:00 71° 0.01 in 5 — 82.3%
15:00 70° 0.02 in 5 — 87.2%
16:00 71° 0.02 in 6 — 86.2%
17:00 75° 0.01 in 5 — 77.9%
18:00 77° 0.01 in 5 — 72.4%
19:00 78° dry 6 — 66.4%
20:00 80° dry 6 — 63.9%
21:00 78° 0.02 in 8 — 66.3%
Mon Monday 24 August
Caution
Temp63°F
Rain0.01 in
Wind2 mph
Gusts—
Humidity95%
Drying — 15h since rainHumidity 95% — potential fog
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 65° dry 6 — 99.4%
12:00 63° dry 2 — 95.4%
18:00 75° 0.00 in 7 — 49.8%
Tue Tuesday 25 August
Good
Temp61°F
Raindry
Wind4 mph
Gusts—
Humidity85%
Should be dry
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 56° dry 5 — 94.5%
12:00 60° dry 4 — 85.2%
18:00 71° dry 11 — 54.4%
Wed Wednesday 26 August
Good
Temp63°F
Raindry
Wind4 mph
Gusts—
Humidity77%
Should be dry
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 58° dry 5 — 87.7%
12:00 62° dry 4 — 77.4%
18:00 76° dry 6 — 46.9%
Thu Thursday 27 August
Poor
Temp64°F
Rain0.04 in
Wind3 mph
Gusts—
Humidity92%
1mm rain forecastHumidity 92% — potential fog
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 59° dry 5 — 94.7%
12:00 64° dry 3 — 92.2%
18:00 77° 0.04 in 8 — 63.9%
Fri Friday 28 August
Poor
Temp66°F
Rain0.10 in
Wind2 mph
Gusts—
Humidity99%
2.5mm rain forecastHumidity 99% — likely fog/cloud
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 66° dry 2 — 99.5%
12:00 67° dry 2 — 99.3%
18:00 79° 0.03 in 5 — 63.5%
Access
Access banner: main sport area at Farley has been restricted / closed at the landowner's request as of recent WMCC advisories — verify current status at wmcc.org before travelling.
Bird ban (02-15 to 06-15)
Peregrine falcon closure affects Courtroom, Main Slab, Pinnacle, Yellow Wall, K2, and Balcony sectors. Zen Garden and Four Tiers remain open.

About Farley Ledge

Farley Ledge is western Massachusetts's flagship sport venue — a south-east-facing chain of granitic-gneiss ledges (not schist, despite common lore) above the Millers River in Farley, ninety minutes west of Boston. The stone is high-friction gneiss with the trademark "big, sloping horizontals" the Farley regulars talk about. When open, the wider Farley Wall holds a concentration of quality routes in the 5.10–5.13 range — specific route names are withheld here per the WMCC / landowner agreement that keeps the crag accessible. Land is split across three owners; WMCC owns only the main parking lot and approach trails and asks a $5 suggested donation or $60 annual pass. NO comprehensive guidebook and no commercial guiding on FirstLight sections. Peregrine falcon closures February 15 – June 15 affect Courtroom, Main Slab, Pinnacle, Yellow Wall, K2, and Balcony sectors; Zen Garden and Four Tiers stay open. Access is fragile — respect posted rules or the crag closes.

Region
Massachusetts
Rock type
gneiss
Aspect
south-east-facing
Altitude
453 ft
Exposure
medium
Seepage
medium

Other crags in this region

Rose Ledge (Northfield Mountain)Crow HillQuincy Quarries