Climbing Forecast › Massachusetts › Farley Ledge

MASSACHUSETTS · GNEISS · bird ban

Farley Ledge climbing conditions

Good — dry and climbable

Right now

Temp46°F
Wind2 mph
Gusts4 mph
Humidity98.6%
Rain 48hdry
Last rainNone recent

Assessment

No recent rain
High humidity (98.6%) — gneiss friction compromised, particularly for bouldering

7-day forecast

Scroll through each day — hourly detail is shown inline.

Today Monday 5 October
Good
Temp54°F
Raindry
Wind7 mph
Gusts4 mph
Humidity79%
No recent rain
  • Good conditions for gneiss
  • Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 46° dry 1 — 99.8%
07:00 46° dry 4 — 99.7%
08:00 46° dry 3 — 99.8%
09:00 47° dry 4 — 99.3%
10:00 47° dry 4 — 97.6%
11:00 47° dry 4 — 95.5%
12:00 49° dry 4 — 93.4%
13:00 51° dry 5 — 91.5%
14:00 58° dry 8 — 79%
15:00 62° dry 11 — 56.1%
16:00 63° dry 13 — 39.2%
17:00 63° dry 14 — 38.3%
18:00 62° dry 16 — 42.7%
19:00 61° dry 15 — 44.7%
20:00 60° dry 15 — 45.6%
21:00 58° dry 14 — 46.9%
Tue Tuesday 6 October
Good
Temp46°F
Raindry
Wind9 mph
Gusts—
Humidity55%
No recent rain
  • Good conditions for gneiss
  • Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 45° dry 11 — 62.9%
07:00 44° dry 11 — 63.9%
08:00 43° dry 11 — 67.5%
09:00 43° dry 11 — 67.7%
10:00 42° dry 9 — 65.8%
11:00 41° dry 9 — 64.6%
12:00 43° dry 8 — 61.9%
13:00 45° dry 11 — 53.5%
14:00 47° dry 10 — 49.2%
15:00 50° dry 10 — 46%
16:00 52° dry 10 — 41.8%
17:00 54° dry 10 — 39.3%
18:00 55° dry 10 — 38.4%
19:00 56° dry 11 — 38.3%
20:00 56° dry 11 — 38.5%
21:00 55° dry 10 — 39.5%
Wed Wednesday 7 October
Good
Temp46°F
Raindry
Wind6 mph
Gusts—
Humidity67%
No recent rain
  • Good conditions for gneiss
  • Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 38° dry 4 — 79.1%
07:00 38° dry 4 — 79.3%
08:00 38° dry 3 — 81.1%
09:00 37° dry 3 — 81.8%
10:00 37° dry 3 — 82.5%
11:00 37° dry 4 — 83.3%
12:00 42° dry 5 — 78.4%
13:00 47° dry 5 — 66.6%
14:00 52° dry 6 — 57.7%
15:00 56° dry 8 — 52.1%
16:00 58° dry 10 — 50.1%
17:00 60° dry 11 — 51.7%
18:00 62° dry 11 — 51.8%
Thu Thursday 8 October
Caution
Temp50°F
Raindry
Wind5 mph
Gusts—
Humidity90%
No recent rainHumidity 90% — potential fog
  • Good conditions for gneiss
  • Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
  • Damp air — friction edges may feel greasy
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 50° dry 9 — 92.3%
12:00 51° dry 5 — 89.9%
18:00 67° dry 10 — 44.7%
Fri Friday 9 October
Good
Temp48°F
Raindry
Wind6 mph
Gusts—
Humidity84%
No recent rain
  • Good conditions for gneiss
  • Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 48° dry 5 — 80%
12:00 48° dry 5 — 84%
18:00 62° dry 10 — 40.9%
Sat Saturday 10 October
Good
Temp48°F
Raindry
Wind6 mph
Gusts—
Humidity72%
No recent rain
  • Good conditions for gneiss
  • Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 46° dry 7 — 83%
12:00 49° dry 6 — 71.8%
18:00 64° dry 8 — 37.3%
Sun Sunday 11 October
Good
Temp43°F
Raindry
Wind2 mph
Gusts—
Humidity89%
No recent rain
  • Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
  • Damp air — friction edges may feel greasy
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 41° dry 2 — 88.9%
12:00 42° dry 2 — 88.8%
18:00 64° dry 8 — 46.7%
Mon Monday 12 October
Good
Temp50°F
Raindry
Wind5 mph
Gusts—
Humidity89%
No recent rain
  • Good conditions for gneiss
  • Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
  • Damp air — friction edges may feel greasy
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 49° dry 6 — 95.4%
12:00 49° dry 5 — 89.4%
18:00 77° dry 2 — 38.4%
Access
Access banner: main sport area at Farley has been restricted / closed at the landowner's request as of recent WMCC advisories — verify current status at wmcc.org before travelling.
Bird ban (02-15 to 06-15)
Peregrine falcon closure affects Courtroom, Main Slab, Pinnacle, Yellow Wall, K2, and Balcony sectors. Zen Garden and Four Tiers remain open.

About Farley Ledge

Farley Ledge is western Massachusetts's flagship sport venue — a south-east-facing chain of granitic-gneiss ledges (not schist, despite common lore) above the Millers River in Farley, ninety minutes west of Boston. The stone is high-friction gneiss with the trademark "big, sloping horizontals" the Farley regulars talk about. When open, the wider Farley Wall holds a concentration of quality routes in the 5.10–5.13 range — specific route names are withheld here per the WMCC / landowner agreement that keeps the crag accessible. Land is split across three owners; WMCC owns only the main parking lot and approach trails and asks a $5 suggested donation or $60 annual pass. NO comprehensive guidebook and no commercial guiding on FirstLight sections. Peregrine falcon closures February 15 – June 15 affect Courtroom, Main Slab, Pinnacle, Yellow Wall, K2, and Balcony sectors; Zen Garden and Four Tiers stay open. Access is fragile — respect posted rules or the crag closes.

Region
Massachusetts
Rock type
Gneiss
Aspect
south-east-facing
Altitude
453 ft
Exposure
medium
Seepage
medium

Other crags in this region

Crow HillQuincy QuarriesRose Ledge (Northfield Mountain)