- Schist climbs well when dry; lichen may slow drying in shade
NEW HAMPSHIRE · SCHIST · bird ban
Rumney climbing conditions
Good — dry and climbable
Right now
Assessment
7-day forecast
Scroll through each day — hourly detail is shown inline.
- Schist climbs well when dry; lichen may slow drying in shade
- Wet schist is slippery and slow to dry
- Damp air — slopers and friction edges may feel greasy
- Schist climbs well when dry; lichen may slow drying in shade
- Damp air — slopers and friction edges may feel greasy
- Schist climbs well when dry; lichen may slow drying in shade
- Damp air — slopers and friction edges may feel greasy
- Schist climbs well when dry; lichen may slow drying in shade
- Schist climbs well when dry; lichen may slow drying in shade
- Wet schist is slippery and slow to dry
- Damp air — slopers and friction edges may feel greasy
About Rumney
Rumney is the flagship sport-climbing destination of the Northeast — a series of south-facing Rangeley Formation mica-schist cliffs above Rattlesnake Mountain in central New Hampshire, two hours north of Boston. The schist holds bullet-hard edges, pockets, and slopers across a huge grade range: friendly 5.6 warm-ups on the Meadows Wall, endurance moderates like Junco (5.8+), Metamorphosis (5.8+), Underdog (5.10a), and Off My Medication (5.10b), and world-class hard routes including Waimea (5.10d), Peer Pressure (5.13c), and Predator (5.13c). Season runs April through November; midsummer bakes on the south-facing walls and April/October give the best friction. Main Cliff and Waimea Wall hold seepage longer than the drier southern sectors after wet spells. USFS parking pass required at the three Buffalo Road lots ($5/day, $30 annual, $50 household). The Rumney Climbers Association maintains stewardship. Peregrine falcons close specific Main Cliff routes April 1 through August 1 each year — check the RCA or USFS page for the current-year list before travelling.
- Region
- New Hampshire
- Rock type
- schist
- Aspect
- south-facing
- Altitude
- 801 ft
- Exposure
- medium
- Seepage
- medium