- Good conditions for gneiss
- Wet gneiss is slick — let the rock dry before leading
VALLE DELL'ORCO · GNEISS
Valle dell'Orco — Caporal climbing conditions
Poor — wet, too windy or closed
Right now
Assessment
7-day forecast
Scroll through each day — hourly detail is shown inline.
- Good conditions for gneiss
- Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
- Good conditions for gneiss
- Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
- Good conditions for gneiss
- Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
- Good conditions for gneiss
- Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
- Damp air — friction edges may feel greasy
- Good conditions for gneiss
- Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
- Good conditions for gneiss
- Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
- Damp air — friction edges may feel greasy
- Good conditions for gneiss
- Gneiss climbs well when dry; foliation planes can hold moisture on shaded aspects
About Valle dell'Orco — Caporal
The most famous wall in Valle dell'Orco and one of the historical highpoints of Italian rock climbing — a 150m south-facing granite-gneiss slab-and-crack block above the old valley road between Noasca and Ceresole Reale, at about 1200m base altitude. Named 'Caporal' by 1970s pioneers as a diminutive echo of Yosemite's El Capitan. Steep splitter cracks and delicate slabs, mixed trad and bolted lines. Non-porous compact orthogneiss so drying is very fast, and the south aspect helps further. This is where the 'Nuovo Mattino' generation reinvented Italian rock climbing in the 1970s — every historic line remains popular.
- Region
- Valle dell'Orco
- Rock type
- Gneiss
- Aspect
- south-facing
- Altitude
- 1200m
- Exposure
- high
- Seepage
- low