- Good friction range for dolerite
- Dolerite climbs well when dry
- Breezy — helps drying
NORTHERN IRELAND — BALLYCASTLE · DOLERITE
Fair Head (Farrangrenn) climbing conditions
Poor — wet, too windy or closed
Right now
Assessment
7-day forecast
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- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Breezy — helps drying
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Dolerite climbs well when dry
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Wet dolerite is slick — let it dry before leading
- Breezy — helps drying
- Good friction range for dolerite
- Dolerite climbs well when dry
About Fair Head (Farrangrenn)
Farrangrenn (E2 5c), Ocean Wall (E3 5c), Eye of the Needle (E1 5b)","Fair Head (Farrangrenn) forms a central, towering sector of the main Fair Head sea cliff, famous for its impressive concentration of long, parallel dolerite columns. The rock quality is superb, presenting continuous vertical crack systems, sharp volume edges, and exposed belay ledges set high above the boulder field. Facing due north, the wall receives minimal direct sunlight throughout the day, depending on elevated coastal winds to dry the rock after wet weather. The grade profile caters to experienced traditional climbers, offering physical jam cracks and technical face routes predominantly in the E1 to E5 range, headlined by the classic route Farrangrenn. The approach takes twenty-five minutes from the farm parking area across open pastures followed by a steep descent down Grey Man's Path or the Ballycastle gully. Navigating the severe boulder field at the cliff base requires high boots and agility.
- Region
- Northern Ireland — Ballycastle
- Rock type
- dolerite
- Aspect
- north-facing
- Altitude
- 180m
- Exposure
- high
- Seepage
- low