Shagg Crag climbing conditions

About Shagg Crag

Shagg Crag is western Maine's hard-sport testpiece — a south-facing 30°-overhanging granite wall on Bald Mountain above Shagg Pond in Woodstock (Bryant Pond mailing address), an hour north of Lewiston. Mountain Project describes it as "steep, juggy" with afternoon sun and little shade — pack sunscreen. The classic tick list is heavily in the mid-5.12 range: Mountain Project's top-ranked are The Great Escape (5.10b/c), Two Shaved Heads (5.12a), Ginseng Route (5.12b), Meltdown (5.12c), and Shagg It (5.12d). Shaggin' Wagon (5.12a/b) is another crag standard. The steep angle and sun exposure keep drying times short. Approach from Route 26 toward West Paris, then right onto Route 219, then Tuell Hill / Redding Road; parking is on private land near a public trailhead — 30–40 minutes uphill hike following blue paint splashes to the summit then a climbers' path down to the crag. No formal fee; respect landowner rules.

Region

Maine

Rock type

Granite

Aspect

south-facing

Altitude

1460 ft

Exposure

medium

Seepage

low