- Good friction range for quartz monzonite
- Quartz monzonite gives bombproof friction when dry — coarse grain shreds fingertips, bring tape
BISHOP / EASTERN SIERRA · QUARTZ MONZONITE
The Buttermilks climbing conditions
Good — dry and climbable
Right now
Assessment
7-day forecast
Scroll through each day — hourly detail is shown inline.
- Good friction range for quartz monzonite
- Quartz monzonite gives bombproof friction when dry — coarse grain shreds fingertips, bring tape
- Wet quartz monzonite is slick — dries within an hour or two of a shower in desert conditions
- Good friction range for quartz monzonite
- Quartz monzonite gives bombproof friction when dry — coarse grain shreds fingertips, bring tape
- Good friction range for quartz monzonite
- Quartz monzonite gives bombproof friction when dry — coarse grain shreds fingertips, bring tape
- Good friction range for quartz monzonite
- Quartz monzonite gives bombproof friction when dry — coarse grain shreds fingertips, bring tape
- Good friction range for quartz monzonite
- Quartz monzonite gives bombproof friction when dry — coarse grain shreds fingertips, bring tape
- Good friction range for quartz monzonite
- Quartz monzonite gives bombproof friction when dry — coarse grain shreds fingertips, bring tape
About The Buttermilks
The Buttermilks are the world's most famous highball bouldering area — a scattered field of enormous quartz-monzonite blocks (composition matches the local Wheeler Crest / Tungsten Hills Quartz Monzonite plutons mapped by Bateman for USGS) deposited on the Bishop Creek moraine bench 8km west of Bishop at ~1950m altitude, framed against the eastern Sierra escarpment. Grandpa Peabody and Grandma Peabody are the pilgrimage-scale highball boulders; The Mandala (V12) is the definitive test-piece problem. Problems frequently feature 20+ foot top-outs, so substantial padding is essential. The quartz monzonite is exceptionally coarse and abrasive — bring tape and expect chewed fingertips. Even a small percentage of humidity noticeably reduces friction on the polished patina crimps and slopers; cold, dry days are prime. Wind is common on the exposed bench and can shut down sensitive climbing. Season is mid-October through April; summers are hot; midwinter can see snow. BLM land, camping widely tolerated at roadside pull-outs. Access: Highway 168 west from Bishop, right onto Buttermilk Road for 3.5 miles.
- Region
- Bishop / Eastern Sierra
- Rock type
- Quartz monzonite
- Aspect
- mixed-facing
- Altitude
- 6391 ft
- Exposure
- high
- Seepage
- very-low