Climbing Forecast Bishop / Eastern Sierra The Buttermilks

BISHOP / EASTERN SIERRA · QUARTZ MONZONITE

The Buttermilks climbing conditions

Good — dry and climbable

Right now

Temp75°F
Wind7 mph
Gusts10 mph
Humidity26.6%
Rain 48hdry
Last rainNone recent

Assessment

No recent rain

7-day forecast

Scroll through each day — hourly detail is shown inline.

Today Wednesday 26 August
Good
Temp64°F
Raindry
Wind2 mph
Gusts10 mph
Humidity48%
No recent rain
  • Good friction range for quartz monzonite
  • Quartz monzonite gives bombproof friction when dry — coarse grain shreds fingertips, bring tape
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 66° dry 3 45.5%
07:00 64° dry 4 48.8%
08:00 63° dry 3 51.3%
09:00 62° dry 3 53%
10:00 61° dry 2 52.9%
11:00 61° dry 2 53%
12:00 60° dry 2 52.9%
13:00 60° dry 2 53.3%
14:00 62° dry 2 51.4%
15:00 69° dry 2 40.6%
16:00 73° dry 2 29.5%
17:00 76° dry 5 26.5%
18:00 78° dry 7 23.6%
19:00 80° dry 9 20.5%
20:00 82° dry 11 17.8%
21:00 83° dry 12 17.1%
Thu Thursday 27 August
Good
Temp64°F
Raindry
Wind2 mph
Gusts
Humidity41%
No recent rain
  • Good friction range for quartz monzonite
  • Quartz monzonite gives bombproof friction when dry — coarse grain shreds fingertips, bring tape
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 67° dry 2 43.7%
07:00 66° dry 2 46.5%
08:00 65° dry 1 46.6%
09:00 64° dry 2 45.5%
10:00 64° dry 2 44.4%
11:00 63° dry 2 44.1%
12:00 62° dry 2 45.1%
13:00 61° dry 2 46.7%
14:00 62° dry 2 45.1%
15:00 69° dry 3 36.3%
16:00 74° dry 3 26.1%
17:00 76° dry 4 24%
18:00 79° dry 7 21.9%
19:00 81° dry 9 19.8%
20:00 83° dry 11 17.7%
21:00 84° dry 12 16.8%
Fri Friday 28 August
Poor
Temp68°F
Rain0.02 in
Wind8 mph
Gusts
Humidity42%
0.6mm rain forecast
  • Wet quartz monzonite is slick — dries within an hour or two of a shower in desert conditions
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 71° dry 3 32.4%
07:00 70° dry 4 33.5%
08:00 70° dry 5 33.1%
09:00 68° dry 6 34.6%
10:00 67° dry 7 38.7%
11:00 67° dry 8 40.7%
12:00 68° dry 9 38.7%
13:00 67° dry 7 40.3%
14:00 67° 0.01 in 8 43.6%
15:00 67° 0.01 in 7 46.6%
16:00 69° dry 8 43.1%
17:00 72° dry 9 38%
18:00 76° 0.01 in 13 32.7%
Sat Saturday 29 August
Good
Temp59°F
Rain0.01 in
Wind3 mph
Gusts
Humidity67%
Should be dry
  • Good friction range for quartz monzonite
  • Quartz monzonite gives bombproof friction when dry — coarse grain shreds fingertips, bring tape
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 62° dry 3 65.4%
12:00 59° dry 3 67.3%
18:00 73° 0.00 in 5 37.8%
Sun Sunday 30 August
Good
Temp52°F
Raindry
Wind2 mph
Gusts
Humidity60%
Should be dry
  • Good friction range for quartz monzonite
  • Quartz monzonite gives bombproof friction when dry — coarse grain shreds fingertips, bring tape
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 59° dry 3 66%
12:00 52° dry 3 59.8%
18:00 71° dry 1 26.9%
Mon Monday 31 August
Good
Temp54°F
Raindry
Wind3 mph
Gusts
Humidity47%
Should be dry
  • Good friction range for quartz monzonite
  • Quartz monzonite gives bombproof friction when dry — coarse grain shreds fingertips, bring tape
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 61° dry 2 45%
12:00 54° dry 3 47.2%
18:00 72° dry 1 13.8%
Tue Tuesday 1 September
Good
Temp50°F
Raindry
Wind2 mph
Gusts
Humidity38%
Should be dry
  • Good friction range for quartz monzonite
  • Quartz monzonite gives bombproof friction when dry — coarse grain shreds fingertips, bring tape
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 57° dry 5 41.8%
12:00 50° dry 3 38%
18:00 70° dry 2 11.1%
Wed Wednesday 2 September
Good
Temp54°F
Raindry
Wind1 mph
Gusts
Humidity51%
Should be dry
  • Good friction range for quartz monzonite
  • Quartz monzonite gives bombproof friction when dry — coarse grain shreds fingertips, bring tape
Time °F Rain Wind (mph) Gust Hum
06:00 62° dry 1 42.1%
12:00 54° dry 1 51%
18:00 73° dry 2 14%

About The Buttermilks

The Buttermilks are the world's most famous highball bouldering area — a scattered field of enormous quartz-monzonite blocks (composition matches the local Wheeler Crest / Tungsten Hills Quartz Monzonite plutons mapped by Bateman for USGS) deposited on the Bishop Creek moraine bench 8km west of Bishop at ~1950m altitude, framed against the eastern Sierra escarpment. Grandpa Peabody and Grandma Peabody are the pilgrimage-scale highball boulders; The Mandala (V12) is the definitive test-piece problem. Problems frequently feature 20+ foot top-outs, so substantial padding is essential. The quartz monzonite is exceptionally coarse and abrasive — bring tape and expect chewed fingertips. Even a small percentage of humidity noticeably reduces friction on the polished patina crimps and slopers; cold, dry days are prime. Wind is common on the exposed bench and can shut down sensitive climbing. Season is mid-October through April; summers are hot; midwinter can see snow. BLM land, camping widely tolerated at roadside pull-outs. Access: Highway 168 west from Bishop, right onto Buttermilk Road for 3.5 miles.

Region
Bishop / Eastern Sierra
Rock type
Quartz monzonite
Aspect
mixed-facing
Altitude
6391 ft
Exposure
high
Seepage
very-low

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