- Good friction range for Shawangunk conglomerate
- Conglomerate holds friction well when dry
SHAWANGUNKS · CONGLOMERATE · bird ban
Millbrook climbing conditions
Caution — drying out or marginal
Right now
Assessment
7-day forecast
Scroll through each day — hourly detail is shown inline.
- Good friction range for Shawangunk conglomerate
- Conglomerate holds friction well when dry
- Wet conglomerate is slippery but climbs well once dry — horizontal roofs shed rain
- Damp air — small edges may feel greasy
- Good friction range for Shawangunk conglomerate
- Conglomerate holds friction well when dry
- Damp air — small edges may feel greasy
- Good friction range for Shawangunk conglomerate
- Conglomerate holds friction well when dry
- Good friction range for Shawangunk conglomerate
- Conglomerate holds friction well when dry
- Damp air — small edges may feel greasy
- Wet conglomerate is slippery but climbs well once dry — horizontal roofs shed rain
- Damp air — small edges may feel greasy
- Wet conglomerate is slippery but climbs well once dry — horizontal roofs shed rain
- Damp air — small edges may feel greasy
About Millbrook
Millbrook is the Gunks' remote and serious wall — a 250-foot east-facing cliff of white Shawangunk conglomerate on the southern end of the ridge in Minnewaska State Park, reached by a 45-minute approach through the woods from West Trapps parking. The stone is the same durable quartz-cemented conglomerate as the Trapps, but the routes are longer, steeper, and much less trafficked, with a well-earned reputation for run-out crux sequences and pockets of loose rock. Mountain Project's top-ranked classics are Westward Ha! (5.7), Cruise Control (5.9), The Time Eraser (5.10a), New Frontier (5.11b), and Nectar Vector (5.12d, the crag's testpiece). East aspect means early sun then afternoon shade — pleasant midsummer, cold in shoulder season. Most of the cliff-top is Mohonk Preserve land; in October 2020 the Gunks Climbers' Coalition purchased 61 acres including the Ant Lion Crag section, keeping historic access open. Peregrine closures target specific lines each spring — check Mohonk Preserve's Peregrine Watch page. Mohonk Preserve pass ($20 day, $115 annual) required.
- Region
- Shawangunks
- Rock type
- conglomerate
- Aspect
- east-facing
- Altitude
- 1434 ft
- Exposure
- high
- Seepage
- medium