- Wet schist is slippery and slow to dry
RUMNEY · SCHIST
Rumney Main Cliff climbing conditions
Poor — wet, too windy or closed
Right now
Assessment
7-day forecast
Scroll through each day — hourly detail is shown inline.
- Wet schist is slippery and slow to dry
- Schist climbs well when dry; lichen may slow drying in shade
- Wet schist is slippery and slow to dry
- Wet schist is slippery and slow to dry
- Damp air — slopers and friction edges may feel greasy
- Schist climbs well when dry; lichen may slow drying in shade
- Schist climbs well when dry; lichen may slow drying in shade
- Schist climbs well when dry; lichen may slow drying in shade
About Rumney Main Cliff
Rumney Main Cliff is the tallest wall at Rumney Rocks and the flagship of the whole area — a south-facing 100-foot Rattlesnake Mountain face documented in Ward Smith's *Rock Climbing Guide to Rumney* (3rd ed 2017) and the Rakkup digital guide. Distinctive from Rumney's other schist crags: a band of bullet-hard quartzite stretches across the middle of the wall, giving the classic "Rumney feel" that many climbers mistake for fine-grained sandstone — angular edges, technical smearing, insecure stems. Consensus classics span the grades — Underdog (5.10a), Gold Digger (5.8+), Sweet Polly Purebred (5.10c), Millenium Falcon (5.10c), and the endurance testpiece Know Ethics (5.11a). Most of Main Cliff and Main Cliff Right are seasonally closed for nesting peregrine falcons — a pair has returned annually for 20+ years and NH Audubon's avian biologist monitors the site; closures typically run April 1 to August 1 and White Mountain National Forest enforces. Managed in partnership with the Rumney Climbers' Association; WMNF day-use fee $5/day (or $30 annual, $50 household annual). South aspect and modest altitude mean it bakes in July — the reliable window is May–early July then late August–early November. Schist foliation holds water in cracks — allow 24 hours to dry after a soaking; the quartzite band recovers faster.
- Region
- Rumney
- Rock type
- Schist
- Aspect
- south-facing
- Altitude
- 807 ft
- Exposure
- medium
- Seepage
- medium