Dewerstone Main Cliff climbing conditions

About Dewerstone Main Cliff

Dewerstone Main Cliff is the flagship granite precipice in the wooded Plym Valley near Shaugh Prior on southern Dartmoor. The rock character is high-quality granite, featuring steep vertical walls, immaculate corners, technical face crimps, and clean crack lines high above the forest canopy. Facing south, the upper walls receive abundant daylight and dry quickly after rain, though lower pitch starts remain shaded by woodland trees. The route profile spans classic multi-pitch traditional climbs from Very Severe up to bold E-grades, dominated by benchmark lines like Central Rib and Scimitar. The approach involves a fifteen-minute walk along riverside paths from Shaugh Bridge car park followed by a short uphill woodland trail. Midge presence on humid, windless summer days is the primary consideration.

Region

Devon — Dartmoor

Rock type

Granite

Aspect

south-facing

Altitude

190m

Exposure

medium

Seepage

medium